Leavenworth Bouldering (Nov.
20-21, 2004)
Saturday morning, Ryan, Andrew, and I loaded our crashpads into Ryans
VW bus and set out for Leavenworth to check out some of the
bouldering. Ryan and Andrew had been before, but it was my first
time, so I was excited to try some new problems at a new (for me)
area. After driving to Monroe and discovering we had forgotten
Makiya (Ryan's dog) at our house, we drove back to Seattle, picked up
Makiya, and set out once again for Leavenworth. We arrived at the
Swiftwater parking area around 11:30 am, and decided to start on the
other side of the road, since it seemed to be getting a bit more
sun. We did a couple of easier problems, then did a really good
V4 called Lead Underwear, which Andrew and Ryan are shown climbing
below:


Next we did a V3 to the left of Royal Flush (V2 roof crack), which was
fun. We thought about getting on Royal Flush, bu then decided
that it looked too painful. Next we moved on to a long traverse
problem, which was V3 in our guide. It was pretty hard, Ryan and
Andrew both sent it, but I didn't get it, falling off the last move
twice in a row. It was stinkin' hard for V3, and I looked it up
on an online Leavenworth bouldering guide at the climbingwashington.com
website, and they reported it as V6. Somewhere between those two
extremes would probably be more appropriate, maybe V4 or V5. Here
are photos of Ryan and myself on it (the colour is funny since the
photos were compensated for being underexposed):


Next we moved on to a V7 sloper problem called "Premium Coffee".
It is a really cool looking problem, but also very difficult. It
is short and simple, you just have to be able to stick to bad slopers
and pull really hard off them. Ryan did well on it, doing all the
individual moves, but wasn't able to link them. Andrew did pretty
well also, doing most of the moves, and pretty much couldn't do
anything on it (but that didn't stop me from having fun trying).
Here are some pictures of us on it:



After this we were pretty tired, but we went over to the parking lot
side of the road and did a few problems on the big boulder on your left
as you enter the parking lot. We then headed into town to eat at
Gustav's, then drove up to some free camping in Icicle Creek
Canyon. The next morning dawned bright and cold, and we headed to
the Forestland area in Icicle Creek Canyon. We did a bunch of fun
problems there, one of the highlights being a V7 called "Backdoor A**
Attack", which we all managed to send eventually. Other good ones
were a V2 mantle problem which took me at least 10 tries to send (shown
below):

Also good were a V4 that Andrew and Ryan did, shown below:


And also another unnamed V6 that Ryan and Andrew both did, which Ryan
is shown climbing below:

It was a good weekend of climbing, and I'm sure we will be back to work
on things that kicked our butts this time. While Leavenworth
bouldering doesn't compare with Squamish, it is still fun, and about an
hour closer, so could be a good option when the weather is bad in
Squamish.