Current Projects

This is a new addition to my website, where I will list climbs that I am currently projecting, along with photos and beta for them.  It is going to be so awesome.

Bouldering: Tatonka (V8)

This is certainly my most amibitious bouldering project to date, and if I send it, I will meet my lifetime bouldering goal of sending a V8.  This is a very powerful problem which was recommended to me by my brother Fras, who sent it on a climbing trip 2 years ago, and says it is one of his favourite problems ever.  It is located in the Apron Talus, near the descent trail.

The problem starts on some good edges in a small cave, which don't feel as good as they should since you body is completely horizontal with your feet pressing on smears on the opposite wall.



The first move is the most powerful, you have to fall back and catch a sloping rail with your left hand, shown in the next picture.  This involves squeezing like crazy to hold on to the rail, and extreme body tension to keep your smeared right foot on the opposing wall.



The next move is also quite powerful, you have to match the rail with your other hand, another hard catch and more body tension since your body is now very extended.



Next you cross with your left to a good flake, another pretty hard move...



Next you match the flake, then there are about 6 more moves to traverse the lip of the cave to where you can top out.  These moves are not hard compared to the opening sequence, so if you can get to them you should be able to send.  I have been on this problem on 2 occasions, and have not managed to do either of the hard moves yet, but both times was a second or third day of climbing in a row, so maybe I will have better luck when I arrive fresh.  Hopefully this will go down this fall...

Sport Climbing: Californicator (5.12d)

I don't have any photos of this climb yet so I will just post updates of my progress.

This climb is stinkin' rad!  No individual move is too burly, but it just keeps coming at you, with only one rest which isn't even that good.

So far I have had 12 attempts on this spread over several weeks, and my best performance has been completing 6 (of 10) bolts without hanging, and 2 hangs total for the route.  Hopefully I will be able to send it by the end of the summer.

Update (Aug. 3): I had taken a break from Californicator to try and get some more endurance by doing other routes (an actually sending some of them).  Today I sent Propaganda, a very solid 5.12c that I wanted to do before I got back on Californicator, so now I am back in business on Californicator.  Today I had my 15th attempt, and while I didn't quite remember all the sequences, I did pretty well, getting to my high point and doing it with three hangs.  My next goals on it are to get to the keyboard rail rest midway up with no falls, and to get it down to one fall.

Update (Sept. 1): Today I finally sent Californicator, on my 27th attempt!  Quite an epic siege, but I enjoyed every move, it is a great climb.  I don't want to undertake any giant new projects just yet, but my next one will likely be another little Si 5.12d that I have been eyeing, called Psychosomatic.  I will post more details once I start trying it.

Past Projects

Well, now that one of my projects has fallen, I will create a new section in this page for past projects which have gone down.

Bouldering: Sit Start to Holm Boy (V6)

This awesome problem went down on August 13, 2004, the first day of a week long Squamish bouldering trip with my brother Fras.  I had tried it a lot on two other occasions this year, as well as a few occasions the previous year.  I was getting ready for another extended bouting by it, but I managed to send it my first try of the day.

The route starts on a good right sidepull and a crappy left sloping edge, with pretty poor feet.

The first move is up and left to a v-shaped notch.  You then do a hand foot match with your right foot.

And then match your right hand to the V-shaped notch, which is a pretty good hold.

Next put a left foot out on a good edge on the upper face and move your left up to high on the sloping rail.

Next pull up and bring your right foot onto the left hand starting hold.

You then drop your left foot down, and bring your right hand onto a small (but good) edge directly above your left hand.  Then finally you bring your left hand onto the good edge which is the start of the Holm Boy standup version, then match to it, and finish off up the V0+ moves of Holm Boy standup.  I can do all of the moves on this problem, but so far haven't been able to link them.  Hopefully soon, though.

(Thanks to Mitch for taking the pictures and being kind enough to post them on his site for me to download).